Save up to $30 on a two person bivysack.
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Two overhands rolled up again the third. Then the thread broke at the knot.
Roomy with easy exit and entry for the top. Good for extra protection from bugs, wind, ground moisture and dust when used with a tarp or pyramid shelter. Fits up to 6’6″ tall and wide enough for a 2.5″ thick 24″ wide pad inside. Noseeum netting along zipper for great breathability. Squared head and foot sections to let your sleeping bag loft. Stake outs on the four corners to hold it in place when you get up in the night. Tie outs over face and feet. DWR fabric top for good breathability and water repellency (not waterproof, use with some sort of overhead rain protection, ie tarp, thick tree, etc.) Waterproof silicone coated bottom fabric. Leave your ground sheet at home to save weight. $120 with free shipping in USA.
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DIY Kits for 5×8′, 9×9′ and 10×10′ ultralight tarps
How to Video Steps
1 Sew Reinforce Panel Tie Outs
2 Sew Tarp Center Seam, 1st Pass
3 Top Stitch Center Seam, 2nd Pass
4 Sew Reinforced Tie Out to Center of Tarp Along Seam
5 Sewing the hem and inserting reinforcements
6 Sewing on the webbing
Shiny heavy duty reinforced vinyl with huge #10 zippers and wide webbing handles. Great for tools or an extensive shaving/beard kit. Hang them from a coat hook in the bath or from a nail in the garage. Aprox. 350 cubic inches in volume. Get ’em here. Free shipping in USA.
MICRO CORD 1.2 MM,
Tiny, but with a firm finish that holds knots well and doesn’t abrade easily.
Super light you can carry less than an ounce and have lots for tarp set ups, compass lanyards, emergency shoe laces. Fits in most cord locks, even the smallest.
Misc. colors, our choice
Took my worn Strawberry Mountain Chalkbag and replaced the center bellows with new Cordura, added a zip pocket for rap rings, mini knife and such, replaced the carabiner loop with a buckle and web.
Written in response to a question on the MountainProject Forum.
“does anybody else use lockers to rack your cams so you don’t drop them while climbing?? when you rack up for the pitch, just remember to check all of them are fully locked. when black totems are like $115 a pop, i want to make sure they stay safely on my harness.
for anybody else that does this, do you prefer screw locks or double/triple action lockers?? thanks”
History of the lap link in rock climbing.
Chouinard’s invention of the Rugby shirt birthed an explosion of off width climbing. Those developing such, soon ran into problems racking gear. In the tight confines of the cracks and chimneys, the long Perlon on the Nuts would dangle down below the Swami belt and tangle with the spring on the Stitch Plate, coming loose. This presented a safety concern not only for the leader, but also for the helmet-less followers of St Yvon’s aesthetic philosophy. Socks worn inside beenies and chalk bags under bandana’s were no match for a number 10 Hex descending from on high.
Lap links came on the scene. One could smash them closed with a wall or alpine hammer, fixing the gear to the gear sling. They were pried apart with a bit from the bolt kit or a knifeblade piton.
Bill Forest came out with Tetons. Slung with webbing instead of thick static cord, they didn’t require such wide openings to un-rack.
Yvon introduced the Super Long Dong, then the Crag Hammer for extra prying leverage.
Greg Lowe swaged a little keeper cable on the link for use as a belay plate. (citation needed)
Then the lap links limitations started to be apparent. Some of the first instances of anxiety over micro fractures in climbing gear had the campfire discussions and mental health counseling sessions hopping. REI dropped them from their catalog after rumors they were culturally appropriated from Northern Scandinavians. The last nail in the seam for the lap link came when Ace Hardware released a warning regarding galvanic corrosion when racking Copperheads and Pecks.
Climbing in some long forgotton Rocky Mtn cirque or on some friable desert basalt column, you may still come across one of these bits of history.
Attached to an old lead sleeve lag bolt or hanging from faded SuperTape or quarter inch Goldline, left as a rappel ring by some long gone climber backing off something too scary to finish. If so, pause for a moment ——-and replace that sucker with some new gear rated for climbing.
Usually the first part of a zipper to wear out is the slider. The metal wears away over time and no longer pushes the zipper teeth together. Replacing the slider is often a simple matter and takes only a blade or seam ripper and a needle and thread. If you have an Oware product with a worn out slider, contact me and I will send you a new slider for free. Here is a couple of videos on replacing a slider on a bug bivy.